If pumpkin pie had a savory cousin, this would be it.
Wait, don’t go, I promise it’s a good thing!
Normally I’m not one for savory versions of sweet things either (my attempt at a savory cheesecake was somewhat of a disappointment) but this one is an exception. I’m calling it a quiche because it seems more fitting, though savory pie would be apt as well. It’s the same texture as a pumpkin pie, a rich custard with plenty of eggs, cream, and silky smooth squash puree, but instead of sugar and molasses and maple syrup you get savory notes of goat cheese, black pepper, and fresh thyme.
I could see this being served for brunch on Thanksgiving morning, or even a day or two after when you’re sick to death of turkey and still have some lingering leftover squash puree in the fridge.
I used a new-to-me squash variety called a banana squash, a huge hunk of a thing nearly the size of Kalypso (our chubbiest cat). So big, in fact, that I was worried it wouldn’t fit in our oven. (Spoiler: it did. And if you’re stuck in the same boat, here’s the best way to make your own squash puree and preserve it for later use).
Anyway, this Jumbo Sweet Banana Squash (so called by the farmer from whom we purchased it for a whopping $3) falls somewhere in between an acorn and a butternut in terms of sweetness and flavor. But really, any fall squash would work here, including pumpkin, fresh or puree from a can. Canned will obviously give you a stronger squash flavor and a darker color, while freshly pureed squash is much lighter and more delicate in flavor and color.
I used a cornmeal crust here, which is basically a simple shortcrust (distinguished by the addition of egg vs a regular pie crust) with a few tablespoons of coarse cornmeal mixed in. The cornmeal is optional, but I found it gave the crust a nice texture and crunch.
The crust may look crumbly at first, but if you can pinch it together between your thumb and forefinger and it holds together, it’s ready. It’ll absorb more moisture as it chills and is actually one of the easier crusts I’ve worked with (and that means a lot coming from me, who has had more than my fair share of pie crust battles).
I’d also recommend investing in a good set of pie weights. They’re invaluable for dishes like this where the crust needs to be par (or blind) baked beforehand. The weights keep the crust from shrinking (another pie crust plague along with with toughness and crumbliness). No weights? Use a bag of dried beans.
I’ll admit, it looks a bit like cheesy broccoli soup, but it tastes nothing like it (I promise). I think this tart would also be lovely (and slightly more quiche-like) with some chunks of fresh squash as well. Lightly cooked, then spread in the bottom of the crust before pouring in the filling. While the custardy texture is lovely, it is a bit unnerving when your brain is saying Pie! Pie! Pie! but your tastebuds are screaming Savory!
I feel like I’ve fully embraced fall, what with all the squash and sweet potato I’ve been using lately, and I love that there are some equally comforting alternatives to the ubiquitous pumpkin. That said, I do have some pumpkin treats and eats in the works for you, because it really wouldn’t be fall if I didn’t post at least one pumpkin recipe. It may not be exactly what you expect though. :) Stay tuned!
If pumpkin pie had a savory cousin, this would be it, made with goat cheese and herbs and a creamy dreamy texture.
Let us know what you think!
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